The Coast of Montenegro
Montenegro is a hidden gem. It's coastal towns feel reminiscent of Croatia's Dubrovnik before the tourist boom happened around 7 years ago. While Kotor is busy with tourists while the cruise ships are in port, other towns feel untouched by the tourist trail.
We travelled by bus from Shkodër, Albania to our first location in Montenegro- Ulcinj. Founded in 5th century BC, Ulcinj is one of the oldest settlements on the Adriatic coast. The 13km beach, Velika Plaza, is the longest in Montenegro and one the longest on the Ariatic Sea. The old town, sitting above the newer town, is walled and filled with small cobblestone alleyways and stairs. We found a cheap hotel room in the old part, at the top of a 3 story house, which included a huge balcony overlooking the sea (a rare extravagance on our otherwise tight budget). A huge storm cloud rolled in an we got to watch a wonderful lightening show.
We travelled by bus from Shkodër, Albania to our first location in Montenegro- Ulcinj. Founded in 5th century BC, Ulcinj is one of the oldest settlements on the Adriatic coast. The 13km beach, Velika Plaza, is the longest in Montenegro and one the longest on the Ariatic Sea. The old town, sitting above the newer town, is walled and filled with small cobblestone alleyways and stairs. We found a cheap hotel room in the old part, at the top of a 3 story house, which included a huge balcony overlooking the sea (a rare extravagance on our otherwise tight budget). A huge storm cloud rolled in an we got to watch a wonderful lightening show.
Our next stop was the small town of Stari Bar (meaning 'Old Bar'), about 6km inland from the coastal town of Bar (or 'New Bar'). Having taken the local bus, we had to ask the driver to pull over on the side of the highway and walk the 2.2kms down the small local road to the town. Stari Bar isn't large, but it is magnificent. Resting on Londša hill, at the foot of Mount Rumija, the scenery is breathtaking. The town is small and the focal point is the ruins of Fortress Bar. After an afternoon of exploring the fortress, we enjoyed sunset from the top of one of the towers. The small cobblestone street leading up to the fortress offers a variety of small shops and restaurants, but the town essentially closes down after dinner. |
To get to our next destination, Budva, we had to head into the bus station in Bar. The timetables were a bit vague, so after checking to see if there was a train option, we sat at the bus stop for some time before a bus arrived. On the hour drive to Budva, we passed the peninsula (basically a small island joined to the mainland by a single bridge) of Sveti Stefan, a beautiful 15th-century island fortress and a 19th-century royal villa. You can see the "island" of Sveti Stefan from the shore, but unfortunately it has been taken over by a resort and you can no longer visit it unless you are staying there. |
The medieval walls of Budva encircle the entire old town. Passing through one of the arched entrances, you enter a world of small laneways, cobblestone squares, and quaint shops and restaurants. Several beaches surround the old town, and a walk along the coast takes you past a famous statue of a female dancer. Continuing down this path, a small rock cave leads through to another busy sand beach. |
Heading 23km slightly inland from Budva, on the aptly named Bay of Kotor, the walled city of Kotor is one of most visited places in Montenegro. Tourists and cats alike fill the small streets and squares of the coastal town. When cruise ships pull in, locals seem to flee for their privacy until the late afternoon when the ships head back out to sea. A highlight of visiting Kotor is making the climb up to the Castle Of San Giovanni. Entrance via the city steps is paid, but you can still enter through a hole in the back wall if you take the more country scenic climb. The views of the bay are incredible and you will be greeted by several feline guides, resting among the stone ruins.
We stayed at a hostel within the city walls that offered an evening BBQ trip to Fortress Gorazda. While it is only 10km away from the city, the road is narrow and winding and would not be easy to get to without your own car. The rakija flowed as we explored the underground tunnels and rooms of the fortress and waited for the sun to set. The view down towards the Bay and the city of Kotor is picture perfect. |
A nice little afternoon trip from Kotor is the small town of Perast, 12km along the bay. Most local buses heading in that direction will drop you off there if you ask. There isn't much to see, aside from a small promenade with stone buildings, a church and a few boats docked in the harbour. This is also the access point to visit the islets of St. George and Our Lady of the Rocks by boat.
Our final town in Montenegro was the old town of Herceg - Novi, located at the entrance of the Bay of Kotor and 20km from the border of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Much less touristy than Kotor, this small town built onto the hill leading down to the water. The old town is centred around a small square, and features several fortresses- slightly inland is an open-air amphitheater, Kanli Kula Fortress, and on the coast the Sea Fortress and Fort Citadela. There is also a small pebble beach, Žalo, where locals gather in the sun with stunning fortress views.
Filled with cobblestone streets, old fortress walls, and friendly street cats, Montenegro is a must visit on any trip to the Balkans. If you want to avoid the tourist crowds, it would be our recommendation over the now overly visited, and overpriced, destinations of Croatia. The distances between cities are short and the entire coast line is gorgeous, making even a journey on the local bus enjoyable.
Filled with cobblestone streets, old fortress walls, and friendly street cats, Montenegro is a must visit on any trip to the Balkans. If you want to avoid the tourist crowds, it would be our recommendation over the now overly visited, and overpriced, destinations of Croatia. The distances between cities are short and the entire coast line is gorgeous, making even a journey on the local bus enjoyable.
Questions about travelling in Montenegro? Email us and we will be happy to help!