The North of Croatia
Having both visited southern Croatia on separate trips, about 6 years earlier, Shane and I hadn't intended to revisit the country during our 2019 trip to Eastern Europe. However, needing to get from Serbia to Slovenia, the perfect opportunity presented itself to tackle "one that got away"- Plitvice Lakes National Park.
We travelled the 380km from Novi Sad to Zagreb to start our trip across the north of Croatia. The city of Zagreb is quite beautiful. It is also the capital of Croatia and the largest city in the country. From the main train station, Glavni Kolodvor, there is a "U" of parks that leads up to the old town. Small restaurants line the cobblestone streets and you can find the stairs up to the upper part of the old town, overlooking the city. Here you will also find Palača Grlečić-Jelačić (or St. Mark's Church) and the Croatian Parliament. St. Mark's Church is one of the oldest buildings in Zagreb and its roof is decorated with the coat of arms of the city of Zagreb and the coat of arms of the Three Kingdoms of Croatia, Slavonia and Dalmatia. Another major landmark of the city is the Zagreb Cathedral. Built in the 11th century, it is the largest Croatian sacral building. The Cathedral towers over the cityscape when viewed from the Upper Town.
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Because of its location and bus lines, the easiest way to visit Plitvice Lakes National Park was actually a round-trip day trip from Zagreb. It is approximately 90km away, so it is a big day and worth leaving as early as possible. Make sure you book your entrance ticket beforehand and take note of the time allocated for your entrance, as you will only be allowed into the park at this time. For transportation, we found FlixBus to be very easy to use and tickets can be booked online and shown on your phone, instead of needing to print them out beforehand. You will be dropped outside the main entrance gates (#1 or #2).
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Once inside the park, there are several different routes to follow and maps showing trails with time allowances. With your ticket you can also ride the small boats across the lakes and the electric train, but allow time to wait if there is a queue to board. The scenery is breathtaking from almost every viewpoint, but the crowds tend to stay around the main waterfalls and wooden walkway across the lower lakes (the one you see in the iconic photo of the park). The higher up you wander, or the further from the main entrance (#1), the smaller the crowds. Our favourite viewpoint was high above the lower lakes, accessed by a small trail through the forest.
We caught the bus home from the main highway, closer to entrance #2 (there is a small bus shelter on the side of the highway but it is not marked with bus information of any sort when we visited). Plitvice Lakes National Park was definitely worth going back for, but try to go as early as possible, and not in the peak of summer season or holidays if possible to avoid massive crowds that might ruin the experience.
We caught the bus home from the main highway, closer to entrance #2 (there is a small bus shelter on the side of the highway but it is not marked with bus information of any sort when we visited). Plitvice Lakes National Park was definitely worth going back for, but try to go as early as possible, and not in the peak of summer season or holidays if possible to avoid massive crowds that might ruin the experience.
After a final night in Zagreb, we headed west 250km to the small coastal town of Rovinj. Located 700km north of Dubrovnik, the main Croatian tourist trail thankfully doesn't seem to reach this far up the coast. There are tourists, but the city isn't overrun and the prices are not yet extortionate. The Old Town climbs the slopes of a big hill, with the Church of St. Euphemia perched on the top. If you follow the water's edge around past the marina, you will find various beaches to swim at. From the marina you also get an amazing view back at the Old Town. Head to the western promenade of the Old Town and sit on the rocks by the water for an incredible sunset view.
Most people travelling to Croatia will head directly for the Dubrovnik to Split route, or for some island hopping. Both are also great options, but the more northern (and less touristy) cities are also highly recommended. If Zagred or Rovinj are too far to venture from Dubrovnik, hop over the border to Trebinje (only 34km away) or down the coast of Montenegro (only 50km to Herceg Novi) to add a little more variety to your trip.
Most people travelling to Croatia will head directly for the Dubrovnik to Split route, or for some island hopping. Both are also great options, but the more northern (and less touristy) cities are also highly recommended. If Zagred or Rovinj are too far to venture from Dubrovnik, hop over the border to Trebinje (only 34km away) or down the coast of Montenegro (only 50km to Herceg Novi) to add a little more variety to your trip.
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Questions about travelling in Croatia? Email us and we will be happy to help!