10 Days in Albania
As we drove into Albania, the first thing we noticed was the beautiful, green countryside. The second thing we noticed was an abundance of small, concrete domes dotted amongst the fields and roadside. We assumed these had been built by the locals for storage on their property, but after doing some research we learned these were actually bunkers built by the communist government between 1960 and 1980. It is estimated that over 170,000 bunkers were constructed around the country and that on average there are 5.7 bunkers for every square kilometer. They were never used for their intended purpose- to protect Albania against hostile invasion from foreign powers. The cost of constructing was high and took funds away from the country's more pressing issues, such as housing and road construction. The bunkers were abandoned in 1990 following the collapse of communism and most are now derelict. More recently, some bunkers have been re-purposed into a variety of new enterprises, including accommodations, cafes and museums.
This first place we visited in Albania was the eastern city of Korçë. When we arrived, we were greeted with cute lady bug lamp posts along the walk from the bus station to our hostel. We walked up the hill to the Martyrs' Cemetery, which gives an amazing view of the city and landscape below. Heading back down the hill, we stopped at the Birra Korça brewery. The restaurant beside the brewery offers very cheap food and beers so you can try the local fare. Next we headed to the Pazari i Korçës, which is the old bazaar. The small streets are filled with shops and the square is surrounded by restaurants and cafes. Finally, we walked up the main pedestrian street to the Katedralja Orthodhokse- the large orthodox cathedral. |
We headed inland to the city of Berat and only had one day to explore. After dropping our bags, we headed directly up the steep hill to the Berat Castle. The views were amazing but what made this castle unique was the fact that there is still a small town inside and people actually live there. There are a few small shops, restaurants and craft stores, but most of the buildings are still inhabited homes. As we headed down the castle hill towards the river, the white Ottoman houses came into view. These well preserved, historic houses give Berat the title of the "city of a thousand windows".
Heading south to the Gjirokastra, we were greeted by another castle on a hill. It was raining, so this one was a little less pleasant to climb but the castle entrance was something out of a movie. A walkway made of big stone arches, lined with cannons, led to the outside courtyard and an amazing view of the city.
Below, the streets of the old town are narrow and made of cobblestones. The are also quite steep, so beware of any cars you hear as you are exploring. The town is beautiful and both Gjirokastra and Berat are protected as UNESCO World Heritage Sites as rare examples of an architectural character typical of the Ottoman period. |
Our next stop was the seaside town of Ksamil. This tiny little beach destination was very quiet during the off season, but still provided some beautiful sunsets. You can explore the town on foot in about half and hour, so there isn't much to do until the warmer temperatures come in. The small dirt roads, the little beach and the limited shops and restaurants make this town super quaint.
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Ksamil was a great base for exploring the ancient site of Butrint. Inhabited since prehistoric times, Butrint has been the site of a Greek colony, a Roman city and a bishopric. It sits right on the coast in a National Park and is a great place to explore for a day. There was almost nobody around when we visited, so we were free to wander through the ruins alone.
We finished exploring Butrint in the early afternoon, so took the bus back past Ksamil and into the larger port city of Saranda. Saranda has a large, pebble beach, a waterside promenade and a lot of more touristy options. The city itself isn't that nice, but in the summer it would be packed.
We took a small bus to Albania's capital city of Tirana and booked an Airbnb for a few nights to relax and do some laundry. The end of our street, Rruga Him Kolli, is an open air produce market and was constantly busy with people buying and selling fruits and vegetables. The city is large, but for visitors the two main centres are around Skanderbeg Square and the trendy Blloku neighbourhood. Check out the Pyramid of Tirana, a derilict concrete eyesore built in the 80's to honor the dictator Hoxha. Just outside of the centre, there is a large artificial lake surrounded by the Grand Park.
Also worth a visit are the two Bunk'Art buildings. Bunk'Art 2 is smaller and located just off Skanderbeg Square, whereas Bunk'Art 1 is 5km from the centre. It is a massive 3000 sq metre Cold War bunker, spanning several underground floors. It has been transformed into a history and contemporary art museum and gives a good history of the country. |
Our final stop in Albania was the town of Shkodër, near the southern border of Montenegro. We walked the 4km to the Rozafa Castle and were pleasantly surprised. By this point in our trip through the Balkans, a lot of the castles had started looking similar. The view over Lake Skadar and the surrounding countryside was stunning and there were a few hidden stairways to explore. It also happened to be a special day while we were visiting and entrance to the castle and all museums was free. We don't visit many museums, but because it was free we checked out the "Marubi" National Museum of Photography. The museum showcases the work of Italian photographer Pietro Marubi, who came to the city of Shkodër in 1856. Pietro opened the first photography studio in Albania and also captured the first photo in the country
From Shkodër, we did a day trip to Koman Lake. It was a long day, with a 55km drive each way to the ferry docks on a narrow and winding road. But the ferry ride through the gorgeous blue water and spectacular mountain scenery made it worthwhile. The ferry takes about 2.5 hours each way between the towns of Koman and Fierzë. There isn't much at the dock when you arrive at Fierzë, so if you plan to visit the town or travel onward, it might be a good idea to arrange this transportation beforehand.
Albania is a beautiful country and seems to have a lot going for it, but in speaking to locals there are still some issues that need to be addressed. Political corruption is a major issue, and the requirement to line the pockets of officials makes it hard for any business to make significant progress. Albania applied for European Union membership on 28 April 2009 but in 2019 the country is still only viewed as "moderately prepared" for accession. But the people of Albania are trying to make a change. Since February 2019, the opposition parties have organized a series of protests and rallies against the government to demand new elections. They are speaking out against electoral fraud and corruption and are demanding the formation of a new government with fairness in the electoral process.
Questions about travelling in Albania? Email us and we will be happy to help!